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Q. We planted grape vines (this is the third year) and have not pruned them at all. They grow well and produce some fruit. When is the best time to prune them and how far back should they be cut?

Grape vines:  There are now 2 or 3 very hardy grapes for our climate and yours at 3 years should be starting to produce well.  Look at your vine now and try to determine any winterkill on the smaller 'branches' and trim them back.  You can also, at this time, trim some of the side vines to keep the plant manageable, leaving the main vine alone.  Most of the fruit clusters set fairly close to the main vine.

Enjoy a great crop this season!


 
Q. I have two Hoyas, both healthy, but neither one blooms. One is full, maybe 18 inches across and hanging down about three feet. It is several years old and when I inherited it three years ago it had one dried flower. The younger Hoya is only three years old and is a combination of two Hoyas, both from cuttings of blooming plants. I have tried different locations in the house, but all I get is new growth.

Hoya plants:  Hoyas have such lovely and fragrant waxy flowers but sometimes they are reluctant to bloom.  Often it is a case of you being too kind.  Hoya plants like to be quite pot bound and take care to allow them to dry out very well between waterings.  Fertilize once a month between March and October; they use very little fertilizer during our short winter days.  They like a bright area but do not require direct light.

I know of one customer who claimed that her hoya would bloom only if it was growing up (as on a trellis or on a hoop).  I'm not sure of the science of this but it may be worth a try.  Also the flowers come on the newer growth so don't cut your plant back very often.  Good luck!


 
Q. Our property seems to be built on an anthill.  I have been told that rancid margarine might work to get rid of the ants and other garden pests. What can you suggest.

Ants/Deterrents: Your question regarding the use of 'bad' margarine to deter ants - this is a new one to me!  However, here are some of my thoughts.  There are ants that are attracted to fat while others are attracted to sugar.  That is why some homemade ant baits suggest using both a fat and sugar as an attractant.  Most margarines have preservatives in them that greatly slow down the rancidity process so it may take a long time for you to have margarine that is 'bad' enough to repel insects or mice.

Here are a couple homemade deterrents: you can make an ant bait in a yogurt type container by mixing icing sugar with borax and create little ant doors in the container.

An organic commercial product that helps greatly with ants are products using diatamaceous earth as an active ingredient.  We have also had good feedback from customers on house and garden type residual sprays.

Mice Deterrents: For mice an effective way to use mouse bait is to put it in something like a 2" PVC pipe or similar.  Mice like to go into safe places and quietly eat.  A few of these placed around the property line greatly reduces the population.  This is a technique used by tree nurseries to control the mice in their growing fields.

 I hope this helps with your pest problem.


 
Q. My school is looking to purchase a 8- 10 foot flowering deciduous tree. We would like for it to be purely ornamental ( no fruit, suckers etc.) Is there one that you can recommend? Also if you could give me the cost. We're also looking for 2- 4 foot spruce replacement trees. Cost for those as well. We're also hoping that because they're being purchased for a school we may be able to obtain a discount of some kind.

Small Flowering Tree:  There are very few flowering trees that are between 8 and 10 foot in height.  For a single stem tree there are grafted varieties such as lilacs that are grafted on to a trunk and don't grow beyond 8 to 10.  These are somewhat costly compared with other trees, and for a school yard are perhaps on the riskier side.  There are a number of flowering shrubs at the appropriate height including lilacs, nannyberries, double flowering plums or viburnums, as examples.  Most shrubs are available in 2 gal. pots and our 2008 prices are $26.99.  We can offer a 15% discount for the school.

Spruce Tree:  We carry very few spruce but if you order early enough we can sometimes arrange a special order - the cost in 2008 (if available) would be about $28.00 for a white spruce in a 5 gal. container and about 4' tall or in a 2 gal. container and about 2" tall for $16.00.

Hope this gives you some guidelines.


 
Q. I am anxious to start my flower garden again this year, last year was my first time planting. It seemed to grow good in every spot, except the area closest to the house seemed to produce no results. Do you know why that is?

I really do not know a thing about gardening or planting and I want to start getting rid of last years stuff and start preparing the soil for this year. Could you recommend any tips I can use for preparing my soil this spring so that it will be in the best shape for growing and producing great flowers? We basically get sun in our yard all day long so it tends to get rather hot & dry in the summer.  I'm in Wetaskiwin & plan on coming out to see Arber greenhouse soon.  Thanks for your help!

Regarding your question about the area near your house that did not perform well for your plants.  The first thing that comes to mind is too little light, however you indicated that your entire yard has good sunlight.

So, let's look at soil conditions; here are a few thoughts:

  • often the soil close to a house still has a high proportion of poor soil remaining from the digging of the basement.  Many contractors don't put a good thick layer of quality topsoil for gardens and lawns.
  • if there has been work done on the house such as parging,  the soil may be contaminated.

I suggest that you dig a spade depth of soil and have a good look at it and feel it to check for good organic matter.  If there is a high amount of clay or foreign matter dig in compost, peat moss or rotted manure to improve the health of the soil. Another thought is that if is under the eaves it may not be receiving adequate rain water.

Hope these thoughts help you to diagnose the problem.


 

Q. In live in Mesa, AZ and wonder how do you plant cucumbers in trays? Do you use the vacuum method of seeding your trays? Thanks.

Hello in Arizona!

Regarding your question about how we plant our cucumbers - yes, we do plant cucumbers in packs ready for transplant.  Since it is not a very large number that we do we just plant them by hand using a vibra seeder.  We retail all our bedding plants so we plant only what we expect will meet our customers needs.

Otherwise the majority of our planting is with a mechanical air seeder.  We used to use a vacuum seeder but find the air seeder more versitile, faster an more accurate.

I hope this answers your question.


 
Q.
Dear Berta: will you be trying to grow Purple Perilla this year? I was late ordering seeds and am considering not ordering the seeds. I suspect old seeds will be harder to germinate than fresh! (I bought a heat mat for starting seeds so am using it on old seeds but there is no sign of life!

Hi Linacre,

Thanks for your email.  We have tried growing Perilla from seed in the past but find that the germination tends to be poor.  Last year we started Tri-colour Perilla from cuttings and found that they performed very well.  Though these are a beautiful ornamental plant they are also edible.  We have the cuttings started and they look great -they will be available soon and for sale in a 4" pot. 

Thanks for asking.


 

 
Q. Berta, do sweet potatoes grow in this area and do you sell the started slips in spring?

Also, should apple trees or crabapples be sprayed for to ensure they bloom?

 I read that there can be bugs or disease that can spoil the bloom. Do the deer eat your apple trees in your retail yard? We live in the area and just planted two trees last year and are concerned about deer munching on them. Thanks.

Thanks for your excellent questions.  The growing season for sweet potatoes is too short in this area.  We sell ornamental sweet potato plants but not the ones for tuber production.

In this area there is thus far no need to spray apple and crabapple trees for good production.  Our greatest threat is an untimely late severe frost that can damage the blooms and therefore reduced fruit production.  We ae starting to see the first signs of apple maggots in the Wetaskiwin area.  If you doo see signs of the insects or teir damage, spray with Tree Guard which has permrethrin as the active ingredient.  If you do experience apple maggots then the most important thing is to remove all deadfall apples to try to break the life cycle.

Another thing to bear in mind is that some apple varieties tend to produce heavily every second year while others give a good crop every year.

(Touch wood) deer have not tended to ravage our apple trees that we have for sale in the nursery, but they certainly can cause havoc.

Have a great spring!


 
Q. Can we grow wisteria in the Millet/Wetaskiwin area, and if so, do you carry it?

Thank you for your enquiry!

Wisteria are not hardy for our Zone 3 winters at this point in time.  There is however a new variety being tested and if it is successful we may see it on the market within a couple of years.  Let hope as it would be a great addition!


 
Q. Do you carry the purple leaf plum?

Thank you for your question. 

The Purple Leaf Plum tree is a Zone 4 plant and would be considered very tender for this area (we are Zone 3).  An alternative tree for this region would be a Shubert Chokecherry or a Ornamental Crabapple such as Thunderchild.

The shrub called Prunus Cistena is commonly referred to as Purpleleaf Plum or Purpleleaf Sandcherry and we do carry both of these shrubs. 

(what is the difference between a shrub and a tree?)

Please let us know if you have any further questions! Thanks again,

 
 


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